Onward to Cape Breton Island

Monday took us across the Canso Causeway for the start of our Cape Breton Island adventure . . .

We first headed up the Ceilidh Trail, looking for a celtic music/cultural experience! And we got one!  Here's a region where the Gaelic culture and old style Scottish fiddle music are very much alive. At the music centre in Judique we had the amazing good fortune to meet Betty Lou Beaton, aunt of popular fiddle artist Natalie MacMaster! Betty Lou helped us find exactly what we were searching for! She knows all the area happenings!

This is Betty Lou MacMaster Beaton

OMG! An enchanting locale, steeped in old Scotish tradition! I'll just say we had the most delightful time here in Mabou!  Monday night we had dinner at the Red Shoe Pub, listening to authentic Celtic fiddle music - this with piano accompaniment and a gent playing spoons!

 

And then we were off to a local dance!  About 8 kilometers into the hills in another tiny community, Brook Village, we listened to some excellent local fiddlers and watched, at first, a bunch of old folks dancing . . . jigs and reels and strathspeys, so colorful and lively! After an hour or so the young adults spilled into the old Parish Hall and joined the elders in the traditional old-style Scottish folk dances. It was a sight to behold!

No idea what this is called, but they were having a great time!

We spent two nights in the parking lot of the Mabou community center . . .

Pretty garden & house near our "camp"

Tuesday night we attended a local ceilidh (Scots Gaelic word pronounced "kay-lee"). A ceilidh is a gathering for traditional music, dance, stories and song. These occur almost every night somewhere in Inverness County and are well-attended by locals who are all part of this authentic Gaelic culture. 

Again we got to hear some wonderful fiddle music, and a few of the locals took to the stage for some step dancing.  What a treat to experience the local flavor!!

On Tuesday we jumped in the truck and went exploring . . .

Here are some scenes from around very unique and scenic Mabou 

Gypsum outcropping above Mabou Beach

Along the dusty road to Mabou Mines

Finlay Point Cove at Mabou Harbour

Later in the day, we found a perfect place for a bike ride!  A section of the Trans Canada Trail goes through Cape Breton Island along an abandoned railroad line. We pedaled over at least five old bridges through some gorgeous farmland and country scenery , , ,

Relaxing in the RV after our exhilarating bicycle ride, who should appear at our door but the German couple we met in Calais, Maine (camp WalMart) a week or two ago! They, too, were looking for a place to boondock tonight in Mabou! These are the same folks who were at Greenbelt National Park (D.C.) when we were there.  Well, turns out we were all in New Orleans at the same time as well!!  It IS truly a small world! Now we're wondering if we might bump into them someday in Africa - or perhaps in Germany!! Wouldn't that be something?

Well, then, yesterday (Wednesday) began with a farewell to Detlef and Barbara, our new friends from Brunswick, Germany . . . 

(Mabou Community Centre parking lot)
Thanks, Detlef & Barbara, for all your help!!

Then - - on the road again - still on the Ceilidh Trail - with no particular place to go!

Stopped for a tour & taste at Glenora Distillery.
Single malt whiskey? mmmmmm WoW!

Then, stopped here for some fun in the sun.  Lovely beach and time to enjoy it?  Why not?

 Whale Cove on the Gulf of St. Lawrence

I love the warm sand & warm(ish) water at Whale Cove beach

Made it a whopping 42 miles today - - -

That's us - overnighting behind the "Eglise Saint-Joseph"
(Now into French/Acadian territory at St. Joseph du Moine) 

Now - about the money here? Paper money is really pretty - it's colorful and interesting. Canada has done away with the dollar bill and replaced it with a one-dollar coin. It has a picture of a loon on one side, so they call it a "loonie."  They also have a two-dollar coin they call a "two-nie"  . . . fun?

Nova Scotia - Glen Margaret & More

Always hoping to stumble into some secret and perfect out-of-the-way little spot - and we are there!  This is perhaps the most beautiful and amazing part of our adventure so far!  We're camped at funky little Wayside RV Park in the village of Glen Margaret on St. Margaret's Bay.

It's Wednesday - Sunshine, pillowy clouds - fine day for a scooter ride!  Quaint little harbors and picturesque scenery all along the way . . . 

Once again, I was on the look-out for lobster!  I mean, after all . . . .

One of the friendly locals told us where to go for a "true Nova Scotia lobster experience."  This is a place they call the "lobster pound" at Indian Harbor.

The lobsterman lays out various size lobsters to choose from.  We picked a two-pounder to share for lunch, which was cooked up fresh while we waited!  They serve it up right there at the picnic tables out in front.

Really hungry?  Here's a 13 pounder!!

So first they bring us a platter (he called it a "sample") of fresh
 steamed mussels which we hastily devoured!
  Then the amazing, fresh, delicious buttery lobster.
  We picked away 'til we'd consumed every last succulent morsel!
Mmmmm - a most memorable epicurean adventure! 

 

Scooted on down the road to Peggy's Cove, your classic historic fishing harbor.  Perched atop massive ancient granite boulders, the little village looks much as it did one hundred years ago.  And beyond the village at the tip of the little point is the much-photographed Peggy's Cove lighthouse.

Here we are at Peggy's Cove!

Hey!  Not so close to the edge there!

  A plaque up by the lighthouse reads:

"Injury and death have rewarded careless sight-seers here
 The ocean and rocks are treacherous
   Savour the sea from a distance"  

Time for a quick coffee at Beales Bailiwick,
Peggy's Cove

And then, one last look back at that much photographed scene . . .

Pretty place!  Beautiful day!  So nice to be here!!

And Friday - off to see a bit of Halifax!

If you saw our blog from San Diego, you might remember Jean - the beautiful lady who lives on Point Loma and has the way cool funky house and amazing jungle-y yard?  When we told her we were headed for Nova Scotia, she said we must hook up with her good friends in Halifax!  So we did!  Mike and Joanne Sinclair showed us a wonderful time!

Lunch and a drive!!  Winding through the city streets, Joanne served as tour guide, pointing out all the sights.  And these folks know Halifax!  We were honored to have a first-rate tour by two Halifax natives!  Yes!

A city of universities - more than a dozen in Halifax!

Mike's mother first came into Nova Scotia here from Ireland in 1944. 

Looking down on the old Halifax waterfront from The Citadel

Here we are with Mike & Joanne at the Halifax Public Garden.
That rhody there behind us?  Over one hundred years old!

After our city tour, Mike took us out to one of the most incredibly awesome places I've ever been.  There's a teeny-tiny village called Prospect at the end of a small peninsula, southwest of Halifax.  Beyond the village is a narrow little foot path. We walked out and crossed a small inlet, rock-hopped across a trickling stream and hiked over some huge granite boulders to the sea. There, in this isolated little corner of the world, I felt I was seeing the essence of Nova Scotia!

And here it is . . . wish my pictures could convey the feeling . . . .

And here I am - - - THERE!

So awesome when the surf came crashing up over the rock!

 Just a few snippets of the the little village of Prospect . . .

Lobster traps are everywhere!

And now, a few more scenes from around Glen Margaret, our stompin' grounds for the past few days . . .

Today, Sunday, on the road again.  Now we're headed for Cape Breton Island.

Tonight we've stopped at yet another funky RV park in Linwood, Nova Scotia, a little cove off of St. George's Bay . . . and here are a few pictures from this pretty place!

Yes, that's 3 days worth of whiskers!  Hey, he's on vacation!

Oh, yeah, I'm on vacation, too!!