The Chesapeake - at long last . . .

Waaa - hoooo . . . one more thing checked off the bucket list!!!

Ever since reading James A. Michener's Chesapeake (OMG - it was decades ago!) I've dreamed of coming here!  Over the years, when I chanced to see a map of the Chesapeake Bay area, I'd find myself transported back in time by the enticing images still in my mind from that memorable book - and I hoped someday to see it.

And here we are . . . . . crossing Chesapeake Bay - on our way to the Eastern Shore!!

But . . . before we even got here?  Well, we woke on our final morning in a D.C. area WalMart parking lot to find a CIRCUS going on right next door!  

UNIVERSOUL CIRCUS - A cultural experience!

And, WOW, a great circus!   Not sure which was the most amazing – the man in the ring with the EIGHT tigers?  Four motorcycle riders racing round inside a spherical cage? The little contortionist lady who could twist herself backwards and practically tie herself in a knot?  Also, some scary, death-defying high-wire acts!  It was all chills and thrills and very, well, circus-y!   

OK - so, on to Chesapeake Bay . . .  

We're camped for a week at Martinak State Park, Maryland, on the eastern side of the bay. This is a good "home base" from which to explore this richly historic region. (Since virtually this entire place is historic, I'll just state that now and try to avoid redundant use of that adjective henceforth!)

We started out by bicycling all over the little town of Easton . . .

Harold noted this house, c.1805: "Wow!
Dates back to time of Lewis & Clark expedition!"

Along the "Rails to Trails" route through Easton

The old Easton train station

And then we took a drive out to St. Michaels - a popular tourist destination.  We skipped the trendy gift and trinket shops, but did visit the very excellent Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum there - eighteen fabulous acres of exhibits on regional boating, fishing, hunting and all things river-related on the bay.

The Lady Katie there?  A beautiful old restored Skipjack sailing vessel.

We toured the restored and authentically outfitted
 Hooper Strait Lighthouse (built in 1879).
The keeper's life was a lonely one!

And being near the water like that, I started craving crab!!  Asked around and found a market with the good stuff - went home with a half-dozen blue crabs and a couple of crabcakes and had ourselves a feast!

Ooohhh, the Choptank River!!  Martinak Park is situated on the Choptank, the setting for much of Mr. Michener's saga on the Chesapeake.  Anyway, the river is beautiful - just like I pictured it!

On the old riverboat wharf on the Choptank
in the town of Denton, near Martinak

On the river at dusk - Martinak State Park

One day we drove the truck on down to the very picturesque waterbound town of Oxford.  We unloaded our bikes and pedaled around this oldest of Maryland's towns, dating back to at least 1673.  Elegant old homes frame the banks of the Tred Avon River, sailboats and yachts gently pass by manicured landscapes!  Truly a unique little spot. Also Oxford is on a lovely protected harbor for watermen who harvest oysters, crabs, clams and fish.  Beautiful!

We heard that James Michener spent time here at the Robert Morris Inn while writing Chesapeake.

Robert Morris Inn - a portion of which was his residence.
Robert Morris was a friend of George Washington and a signer of
the Declaration of Independence!

. . . and inside the Inn, the original staircase,
 built in the 1700's!!  (Michener was here!)

And as we pedaled on through the town, a huge storm was brewing.  Just in time, we found shelter in front of the old Oxford Market, had a coffee and some ice cream while we waited for the deluge to pass . . .

On the market's covered porch looking out . . . 

. . . at this!! - the downpour we barely escaped!!

Next day - lookin' like a great day for a scoot!  Loaded Trixie into the "rumble seat" and took off on a route!

. . . ready to ride!!

. . . in the countryside - saddle shoe cows!

This day - mostly sunny, not too warm - a perfect scooter loop down through Oxford (again!) where we sped over to check out the marina.  Yakked a bit there with a salty boatman, just back in with his day's catch of crab!  Then scooted over to catch the Oxford-Bellevue Ferry for a scenic ride across the Tred Avon River.

Aboard Oxford-Bellevue Ferry, established 1683
America's oldest privately owned ferry.

. . . in the tiny settlement of Bozman . . .

Then, doubling back through St. Michaels, stopped once again at Big Al's to pick up some more of those delicious crabcakes!!

 

. . . somewhere along our scoot route . . .

What a scoot!!  Over 40 miles of vrooming around Chesapeake land - GLORIOUS!

And then, as we were heading home, just had to stop to soak in this magnificent vista - awesome clouds over the Choptank - Oohhh, what a DAY!    

But - there's MORE!!

Friday was our final day to experience the Chesapeake Bay - and we had a plan!!

Stopping first in Easton to take care of a few tasks, we kind of stumbled by accident into this lovely and very peaceful spot!

It's the Easton Historical Society Garden - very nice!

From Easton west, pausing at a roadside stand for a fresh crabcake sandwich, we sped on past St. Michaels and down the road, across the old drawbridge and over to Tilghman Island.  Here we unloaded our bikes once again and proceeded to enjoy our last little taste of the sprawling Chesapeake.

 

Parking at the southernmost tip, a little thumb of the island, we gazed out at the choppy waters of that expansive Bay.  Off in the distance we could see a double masted sailing vessel - and in my mind's eye - scenes from Michener's historical novel!  All around us - steeped in amazing history!

Pedaling down the lane, we marveled again and again at the picturesque sights we encountered.  A quiet pier jutting out into the Choptank, the tiniest little cemetery we'd ever seen, the harbors lined with fishing boats and graceful sailing craft, wild roses with their heady scent filling the air, old grey clapboard with its beach chairs positioned for the setting sun - and always knowing right there is the ever reaching Chesapeake Bay -  a day we'll long remember . . .

Can you just smell these roses?  It's like perfume!

At the end of the pier - & it's time to head back . . .

On the final stretch - pedaling back to the truck.
Time to say good-bye to Chesapeake Bay.

And just as we were ready to call it a day, the evening sky  . . .

A-W-E-S-O-M-E!!

It's been a wonderful week here!  Seeing the Chesapeake was a dream come true.  And now, we're off once again . . . . . . . Pennsylvania bound.  

More specifically? 
      . . . .  Philadelphia, here we come!!